Fruity Facial Scrub Set {Crochet Pattern}

Fruity Facial Scrub Set

I came up with this fun little facial set one night and can't wait to design more to add to the set!  They work up super quick and make great gifts, especially when you pair them with a gift of one of our great Sugar Scrubs or Coconut Baths!  Also, they're eco-friendly, after use, just toss in your wash and they're clean and fresh again!

Materials needed:

Small amounts of your favorite cotton colors, here are a few of mine!  

Lily Sugar n Cream in Ahoy Ombre

Lily Sugar n Cream Assorted Color Pack

Size H Hook

Apple Facial Scrubber:

 R1: with white, chain 3, 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook.  join to top of ch 3.

R2: Ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each st around, join to top of ch 3. (24 st)

R3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next, *dc, 2dc**, repeat from * to ** around, join to top of ch 3, FO. (36 st)

R4: Join red or green with standing sc in any st, sc in same, 2 sc in each st around, join to top of standing sc, FO. (72 st) 

Stem:  Make a foundation sc chain 7 st long, FO.

Leaf: ch 5, sc in 2nd chain from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next, (2 hdc, picot, 2hdc) all in last ch.  Turn leaf so you're working in the other side of the chain, dc, hdc, sc.  FO.

Orange Facial Scrubber:

With fun use of color, this scrubber could also be a lemon, lime or grapefruit!

R1: with orange, chain 3, 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook.  join to top of ch 3.

R2: Ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each st around, join to top of ch 3. (24 st)

R3: with white, standing hdc in any st, hdc in same, 2 hdc in next 3 st, spike hdc into center loosely, *2 hdc in next 4 st, spike hdc into center loosely** rep from * to ** 4 more times, join to top of ch 2. (48 st)

R4: with orange, standing hdc in any st, 2 hdc in next, *hdc, 2 hdc * around, join to top of ch 2, FO. (60 st)

Watermelon Facial Scrubber:

R1: with red, chain 3, 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook.  join to top of ch 3.

R2: with red, ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each st around, join to top of ch 3, FO. (24 st)

R3: with white, standing sc in any st, 2 sc in next, *1 sc, 2 sc* around, FO. (36 st)

R4: with green,  standing hdc in any st, 2 hdc in next, *1 hdc, 2 hdc* around, FO. (48 st)

Enjoy your awesome new facial scrubbies!!!

Wagon Wheel Crochet Bath Set {Crochet Patterns}

Wagon Wheel Crochet Bath Set

I made this nice little bath set as a Christmas present last year.  It has everything you need to pamper yourself all year round.  Best of all, they're easy to clean.  Just throw them in with your regular laundry and they'll be ready to use again!

Materials Needed:

Your favorite cotton colors, here are a few of mine!  

Lily Sugar n Cream in Ahoy Ombre

Lily Sugar n Cream Assorted Color Pack

Size H Hook

Small wagon wheel face scrubbies (pictured above, small circle on right below pouf):

R1: ch 3, join to make ring, ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join to top of ch 3.
R2: ch 7, dc in next (counts as first dc and ch 3), *ch 3, dc in next**, repeat from * to **11 more times, join to 3rd of ch 7. (12 dc, 12 ch 3 sp)
R3: ch 2, hdc in same, *2 hdc in ch 3 sp, hdc in dc* around. join to top of ch 2, do not finish off.
(you are now working the strands on the back to hold scrubbie)
ch 11, join to opposite side, ch 11, join back to original side and then ch 11 and join back to the other side.  If you make the joins in a row you'll end up with a neat row of chains.  FO and weave in ends.

Wagon wheel washcloth #1

Ch4, join with sl st
Rd 1: Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 11 dc in ring, sl st in the top of ch3 to join (12 dc)
Rd 2: Ch3, dc in same st, (2 dc in next st) around, join with slst (24 dc)
Rd 3: Ch3, ch4, dc in next st, (dc in next st, ch4, dc in next st) 9 tines, dc in next st, ch 4, sl st to join (24 dc and 12 ch 4 spaces)
Rd 4: Ch3, 3 dc in gap left by ch, ch2, (4 dc in gap left by ch, ch 2) 10 times,join with sl st (12 dc clusters and 12 ch-2 spaces)
Rd 5: Ch7, (2 dc in gap left by ch, ch 4) 11 times, ch 4, dc in gap left by ch join with sl st in 3rd ch (12 dc clusters and 12 ch-4 spaces)

Wagon wheel washcloth #2

R1: Ch 3 (beg ch counts as dc here and throughout the pattern), work 11 dc in ring; join with sl st in top of beg ch. 
R2: Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same st as join, ch 1, sk next dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc; rep from * 4 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch. 
R3 and 4: Sl st in each st to first ch-1 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch 
R5: Sl st in each st to first ch-1 sp, (sl st, ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * 10 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch 
Rnds 6: Rep R3.
Rnd 7: Sl st in each st to first ch-1 sp, (sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 18: (Sc, 3 dc, sc) in each ch-3 sp around; join with sl st in first sc.
Each of the (sc, 3 dc, sc) groups makes a 'scallop'; you will have made 24 scallops at the end of R10.
Fasten off.

Small Pouf:

Chain 40, join to first chain to make a loop (this will be your hanging handle).
R1: ch 3, 20 dc in same chain, join to top of ch 3.
R2: ch 3, 2 dc in same, 3 dc in each st, join to top of ch 3.
R3: ch 3, 2 dc in same, 3 dc in each st, join to top of ch 3.
R4: ch 3, 2 dc in same, 3 dc in each st, join to top of ch 3, FO.

Wee Crown Photography Prop {Crochet Pattern}

You know how sometimes life gets away from you?  Well, I have a photography business that I run, as well as all of the crafts, websites and raising children, so I can get quite busy and sometimes leave something behind a little bit.  Usually in my life, the two things that suffer are my websites and my crafting.  Well, thus is not the case with the crafting this time - I've been working on lots of great projects, but I haven't posted about any of them!

Today, I'll share with you one of the simple things that I made while I've been absent!

I knew a friend was giving birth to a girl, so I worked out this adorable little crown for her to wear during our shoot:

It was super easy and took maybe 15 minutes.  Here is the pattern!

Wee Crown Photography Prop {Crochet Pattern}

Special Stitches:  V-stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) all in same st.

Materials needed:
Small amount of worsted weight yarn (you can also go dk or sport, but adjust your hook size accordingly and expect it to be smaller)
Size H crochet hook

Pattern:

Ch 30, join to make ring.
R1: ch 3, dc in each st around, join to top of ch 3 with sl st (30 dc)
R2: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same space, skip two dc, *V- stitch, sk two dc* around, joining with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 4 from beginning of round.
R3: sl into ch 1 sp,( ch 2, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 3 hdc) all in ch 1 sp, sl st in next ch 1 sp, *(3 hdc, 2 dc, 3 hdc) in ch 1 sp, sl st in next ch 1 sp* around, join with sl st to top of ch 2 from beginning of round.

Hope you all like it!  Feel free to leave a comment below!!!

Beautiful Leaves Crochet Scarf {Crochet Pattern}

Not all of my crochet projects get an introduction... but then again, not all of them are as beautiful as this one turned out.  This was the last of my favorite lovely blue and white ombre indie dyed yarn from Stitches Midwest, and it worked up so beautifully.  I made this one as a gift, but I'm going to have to make myself one for ME!   I hope you love this pattern the way I do!

Leaves Crochet Scarf

Materials Needed:

H Hook or larger depending on how tight you want the stitches and what yarn you use

Worsted, Sport or Fingering weight yarn

FSC  30
R1: ch 3, sk 1st sc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc {called cluster from here on through pattern}) in next sc, ch 1, sk 2 ch, dc in next 5 sp, sk 2 ch, ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk 2 sp, dc in next 3 sp, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 5 sp, ch 1, sk 2 ch, cluster in next, dc in last sc of row. Ch 3 and turn.

R2: cluster in ch 1 sp of previous cluster, ch 1, sk ch sp and next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk ch sp, 2 dc, dc, 2dc, ch 1, dc in ch 4 sp, ch 1, 2dc, dc, 2 dc, ch 2, sk ch sp and next dc, dc in next 3 st, ch 1, cluster in ch 1 of previous rows cluster, dc in last dc.  ch 3 and turn.

R3: cluster in ch 1 sp of previous ros cluster, ch 1, sk ch sp, sk dc, dc in next, ch 2, sk ch sp, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next 3, 2 dc in last, ch 2, sk ch sp, 3 dc in dc, ch 2, sk ch sp, 2 dc, dc in next 3, 2 dc, ch 2, sk ch sp and dc, dc in next, ch 1, cluster in ch 1 sp of previous rows cluster, dc in last.  ch 3, turn.

R4: cluster in ch 1 sp of previous rows cluster, ch 2, sk ch sp, sk dc, sk ch sp and next dc, dc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sk last dc and ch sp, 3 dc in 1st dc, ch 3, sk dc, 3 dc in next ch 2, sk ch sp and 1st dc, 5 dc in next 5 sp, ch 2, sk ch sp and cluster in ch 1 sp from previous rows cluster, dc in last.

Continue on by repeating rows 2-4 until scarf is desired length, ending on 4th row.

To finish, ch 1, turn, sc across in each st and ch space.

There you have a beautiful new pattern!  I hope you enjoy working it as much as I did, and please feel free to leave me comments below!!!

My Pattern Experience: The Mystery Snowflake

I found this snowflake in a box full of projects and can remember making it, but can't remember the pattern that I used.  I do remember that this one wasn't one of my favorite snowflakes that I have ever created but I can say that blocking made all the difference.  I remember that it looked all messy and loopy and didn't make sense as a snowflake until I blocked.  For these, since they weren't meant to be doilies, I first wet them and blocked them, then once they were dry, but while they were still on their pins, I painted over them with a mix of white glue and glitter to keep their shape and give them some shimmer.  

Do you know this pattern?  If so, please do me a favor and share the link in the comments below!!!

Diamonds in the Square Granny Afghan block {Crochet Pattern}

I wrote this pattern for a unique Granny square while trying to match a pattern from a picture.  I am working on a blanket for my older daughter (she wanted a blanket just like her little sister has) and I had found this picture that I really liked.  I tried this square, and realized it wasn't quite right for what I wanted, but realized that I had created a new granny square that would be really unique to piece together into a full sized afghan.

Diamond in the Square Crochet Motif

Materials:
Several colors of worsted weight yarn.  I used Red Heart because that's what I had available and I have lots of it.  You can use more or less colors than I did and achieve a different effect.
Size H hook or to achieve your desired gauge

Center Square Section:

Ch 3
R1: 2 dc in first ch, ch2, 3 dc in same ch again, ch2, 3 dc in same ch again, ch 2, 3 dc in same ch again, ch 2 and join with top of ch 3.
R2: sl st over to the first ch2 space.  ch 3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc, ch 1, *in next ch 2 space, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1* repeat around, join to top of ch 3
*Join next color in any ch 2 space (these will be the corners for now)*
R3: ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, *in next ch1 space, 3dc, ch1, in "corner" ch 2 space, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1* repeat around, join to top of ch 3
R4: sl st over to corner ch2 space, ch 3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, *in next ch1 space, 3dc, ch1, next ch1 space, 3dc, ch1, next "corner" ch2 space, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1* repeat around, join to top of ch3.


*Join next color in ch1 space that is in the middle of one of the square sides- this will make one of the triangle sections to form the new square*

Triangle attachment (work on each of four sides of the Center Square Section)

R1: in same space as joining, ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc.  sl st into a space on the wall of the square (be careful not to stretch it too far, you want the triangle to match up on the side as far as length goes.

R2: ch3, turn, in same space, 2dc, ch1, in ch2 space, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1, in top of ch3 from previous row dc in this manner:  YO, insert hook through top of ch3 from beginning of prior row and through a point in the wall of the square equivalent to where you attached the top of the row on the other side, YO, pull through both square and top of ch3, progress with dc as normal. 2dc more in same space, then join top of the row to a suitable place on the "wall" of the square to attach.

R3: ch3, turn, in same space, 2dc, ch1, 3dc in ch 1 space, ch1, (3dc, ch2, 3dc)in ch2 space, ch1, 3 dc in ch 1 space, ch 1, in top of ch3 from previous row dc in this manner:  YO, insert hook through top of ch3 from beginning of prior row and through a point in the wall of the square equivalent to where you attached the top of the row on the other side, YO, pull through both square and top of ch3, progress with dc as normal. 2dc more in same space, then join top of the row to a suitable place on the "wall" of the square to attach.  FO.

Repeat Triangle Attachment on each side of the square.   On last side, do not break off yarn.  Your yarn should be in the point of what was the square after the first section.  Continue on with this next round:

Final Round: ch3, 2dc in same sp, ch1, (3dc in next ch 1 space, ch 1) twice, *in ch2 space, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch 1, (in next ch 1 space, 3dc, ch 1) 5 times*, repeat from * two more times, (3dc, ch 1) in remaining two ch 1 spaces.  Join to top of ch 3 from beginning of round.  FO.

Flower Scoodie {Crochet Pattern}

I wish that I had a better picture for this scoodie, but unfortunately, it was one of those projects that I finished and then wrapped right away.  I made this for my pre-teen neice, who I thought would enjoy the bright colors and unique design.

Flower Scoodie:

Hook Size: I
Worsted weight yarn, three colors

Chain 16, dc in third ch from hook and next 13 st (14 st)  *you can make this wider if you like, just add more chains and st across the row.
R2: ch 3, turn, sk first st, dc in next 13 st.
Repeat row 2 until your scarf is a desired length for your recipient.

For the hood:
Find the center stitch of the scarf and place a marker.  count from the marked stitch outward on either side and place a marker at 17 st.

R1:  Join MC with a sl st to one of the outer marked st.  Ch 2, dc in each st across to the other outer marked st, moving center marker up a row. Turn.
R2: ch 3, dc in each st until one before marker, 2 dc in next st, dc in center marked st (move marker up), 2 dc in next st, dc to end.
R3-8: repeat row 2.
R9: Ch 2, dc in each st until 2 before marker, dc2tog, dc in center, dc2tog, dc to end, turn.
R10-15: Repeat Row 9.
R16: Fold hood in half and either sl st across through both sides or FO and use a long tail to sew the seams together.  Weave in ends.

For Scallop Border:
Attach contrasting yarn to one of the corners of the scarf with sl st
*Skip next 2 st, 7 dc in next, sk 2 st, sc in next*  repeat around.  You may have to adjust the length of one of the shells depending on the length of your scarf.  Make sure that you finish a scallop at the corner, then turn the corner and start another scallop.  Work this way around the whole scoodie, FO and weave in ends.

Flower:
Round 1 : ch 2 , 6sc in second chain from hook, join in beg sc
Round 2 : ch 1 , sc in same sc as beg ch 1,ch 2 (sc in next sc, ch 2) around, join in beg sc
Round 3 : ch 1 ,( sc, 3hdc,sc) in each of ch-2 spaces around, do not join
Round 4 : working behind petals, bpsc around first st of round 2, ch 3 , ( bpsc around next st of round 2, ch 3) around, join in first bpsc
Round 5: ch 1 , (sc,5 dc, sc) in each ch-3 spaces, do not join
Round 6: working behind petals, bpsc around firt bpsc of round 4, ch 4 (bpsc around next bpsc of round 4 , ch 4) around, join in beg sc
Round 7 : ch 1 , (sc,7 dc, sc) in each ch-4 spaces, fasten off.

Sew buttons to center of flower and attach flower to scoodie.

My Pattern Experience: Bohemian Shawl

My Pattern Experience: Bohemian Shawl

I made this shawl in about three days, near the end of fall getting ready for winter wear.  I love it!  I get a million complements on it, no matter which way I wear it.  I used just one color instead of a variegated yarn to bring out the pattern and love wearing it with a greatly contrasting shirt underneath.  The pattern is really easy, and when I made it, I learned a technique new to me- a single crochet foundation row.  I love this technique now and often not only use it, but also double crochet foundation rows to start large pieces.

After you get the first five rows worked, it's just three rounds repeating which decreases as you go, which means that it gets easier as you go along.  When you're done, you just work the edging and you have this beautiful shawl to show for it!  

I used a larger hook, I think it was an "I", and I used Caron Simply Soft and love the way the shawl drapes.  The other great thing about this pattern is that you can wear it in many different ways and it is quite warm.

Two Ways Boot Cuffs {Crochet Pattern}

Two Ways Boot Cuffs {Crochet Pattern}

This is a unique pattern as you can adjust it for your needs, in fact, it's necessary to have good measurements prior to starting and if you're making them for yourself, try them out as you go to make sure that you get a good fit!

Hook Size: H
Worsted or sport weight yarn (go to a G hook if using sport weight)

Pattern:

Determine the height that you want on your ribbed section.  You can choose to have them short, as pictured above, or long, so that you are able to fold the ribbed section over.  Chain as many as you need to obtain the height that you desire.  For the example above, I chained 11.  Make sure to make a note about how many you used for when you make your second cuff.

R1: sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, ch 1, turn
R2:  (in back loops only) sc across the row, ch1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you have enough length to stretch around your calf.  Remember that you want it slightly smaller than the place on your leg where you will wear it, so that it stays snug and doesn't slide.
FO, leaving a long tail for finishing.
join the first row with the last row to make a tube, sewing them together with your tail.

* If you just want a ribbed cuff, you can stop here. For the shelled side, continue on.

Join yarn to one of the sides and continue as follows:

R1: ch 1, sc, *ch 3, sk 2 st, 6 dc in next sc, sk 2 st, sc in next st*  repeat around, joining with sl st in top of first sc.  Pay attention to where you are, as you may need to adjust the length of one shell depending upon how many rows you ended with to fit your calf.  You don't want to make it too snug either as the shell doesn't stretch as well as the rib.
R2: sl st to top of 4th dc of first shell, ch 1, sc in same.  *7 dc in sc between shells from previous row, sc in 4th sc of next shell* repeat around, joining with a sl st in top of first sc, FO, weave in ends.

Make a second using the same chain amount from the beginning of the pattern to ensure they're the same.

Enjoy your new boot cuffs!

My Pattern Experience: Bernat Diamonds and Tweed Blanket

My Pattern Experience: Bernat Diamonds and Tweed Blanket

This was one of my first large crochet projects.  I started it YEARS ago.  Literally YEARS.  I enjoyed the pattern of the blocks because it was unique yet easy.  I remember getting through a large chunk of the squares and then putting it aside.  When I picked it back up, I finished the squares but never seamed them.  Then, about a year ago, I started seaming but I chose to be lazy and try and cover up a bunch of ends with my seaming.  It didn't work so well, so I ended up setting it aside. I pulled it back out when I was going through all of my WIPs that I had thrown off to the side, knowing that if I could just buck up and finish it, that I would have a complete blanket with minimal effort.  I ripped out all the seams, sewed in every end, and reseamed it.  I still don't like how the seams turned out, and if I were to start it all over, I know that I would be able to do it better this time around with many more years of experience under my belt.  I gave it away though, got it out of my house and hopefully the recipient likes it, because I don't want it back in my house!!  Pretty pattern, but so glad to be done with it! :)

Oval Pig Trivet {crochet pattern}

My mother loves pigs.  She had asked me a couple of years ago to make her an oval trivet and I kept trying to make one work, and finally got something I more-or-less liked with this one.  It really looked ok for a while, but I made it double thick(for heat tolerance), and when I added the second layer, I don't know if I just did a poor job of joining them, but I wasn't as pleased as I could have been with the edges.  Mom loved it though (as a good mom should), and all is well.  

This pattern is really rough, I didn't write things down as I went along and am now writing them from memory.  If you notice any errors or find any solutions to problems, feel free to leave me a comment and I'll make the appropriate corrections.

Oval Pig Trivet

Materials:

1 skein Pink worsted weight yarn- probably best to use a cotton or other heat safe yarn, but I knew my mom would never use it for more than either decoration or as a table trivet after things had cooled a bit, so I used Red Heart)

Small amount Black worsted weight yarn

Small amount White worsted weight yarn

Size H Crochet Hook

Embroidery needle (for weaving in ends)

Instructions:

Body (Make 2)

*For the body, think about working a circle, but you are inserting a straight section into the middle of two opposing sides of a circle.*
chain 11
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.
R3: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next *2 dc, 1 dc* repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R4: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R5: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, dc *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R6: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, dc, dc *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc, 1dc , 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R7: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 5 st *2dc, dc in next 5 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, dc in next 5 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R8: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 6 st *2dc, dc in next 6 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 6 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R9: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 7 st *2dc, dc in next 7 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 7 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R10: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 8 st *2dc, dc in next 8 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 8 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R11: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 9 st *2dc, dc in next 9 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 9 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R12: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 10 st *2dc, dc in next 10 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 10 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R13: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 11 st *2dc, dc in next 11 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 11 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing two body pieces together.

Snout:
In pink:
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.
R3: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next *2 dc, 1 dc* repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R4: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing on to face.
Lines on snout- attach a strand of black yarn through the middle of the piece.  Surface slip stitch crochet two vertical lines for the nostrils.

Eyes:

Whites (make 2)
Using one size larger hook than you did for the body:
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing to face.

Blacks (make 2)
Using smaller hook:
ch 3 and join to make ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join to top of first sc, FO, leaving a tail for sewing.  If you stitched over the starting yarn tail, you can pull tight to close the hole in the center.

Ears and Legs (make 4)

Chain 10
R1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 7 st. Ch 3, turn.
R2: dc2tog four times.  ch 3, turn.
R3: dc in each of 4 st. ch 3, turn.
R4: dc2tog twice. ch 3, turn.
R5: dc2tog, fo, leaving tail for weaving in.


Assembly:

Sew the black part of the eye onto the white part of the eye.
Position your snout, eyes, ears and feet with pins until you're happy with the placement.
Sew each piece on to the front piece of the body (not both pieces yet!)  When you place the ears and feet, sew them about 1/4" below the top/bottom of the piece on the back side.  When you join the back body piece, it will enclose them within.
After all body parts are attached, sew the front piece to the back.  I recommend also stringing your yarn into the center parts of the pig and tacking the front and back together throughout.

My Pattern Experience: Yes Yes Shawl Crochet Pattern Review

My Pattern Experience: Yes Yes Shawl by Vickie Howell

I had originally made this shawl for one person and then changed my mind and gave it to another at the last minute.  I regret not having taken a picture of it, it really works up beautifully!

The pattern is just 13 rows, which means that it works up pretty quickly, and I opted to use a larger hook- I think I used an I or a J rather than the G that the pattern called for.  I used Caron Simply Soft yarn, which I frequently use for crochet shawls because sometimes they don't have a very good drape with other similarly weighted yarns but the simply soft just has a gorgeous drape, especially when you go up a hook size or two.  My only complaint on the pattern is that it's a little on the smallish side, which means that there isn't much versatility in how many different ways that you can wear it.

Regardless, it's a beautiful shawl and I do have plans to make at least one more... if only for myself!

Tiny Ponyo Amigurumi {Crochet Pattern}

I gave my daughter Ponyo in her little green bucket. :)

My daughters love Ponyo.  My little one especially.  Given the opportunity, some days she will want to watch it on repeat.  I actually don't really mind.  It's a stunningly beautiful movie and well worth having as part of a kids collection.  For Christmas, I like to make gifts that are really personal for people.  I like my receiver to know that they got a gift that was from my heart to theirs.  This last year, I made my little lulu her very own tiny ponyo doll.  I wanted her to be able to hold Ponyo in her hand the way Soskei held Ponyo in his.  So here it is, my tiny ponyo pattern!

Tiny Ponyo Crochet Pattern

Materials Needed:
Size E Hook
Red Heart Worsted Weight Yarn in Orange, Red, White, Black and Creme.  (Smallish amounts)
Embroidery needle

Special Instructions: Place marker at beginning of every row, do not join.

Head:

R1:  In creme, ch2, 6 sc in 1st ch (6 st)

R2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)

R3: *1 sc, 2 sc* in each st around (18 st)
R4:  1 sc in each st around (18 st)
R5: *1 sc in each of next 4 st, sc2tog* around (15 st)
R6:  1 sc in each st around (15 st)
R7: *1 sc in each of next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (18 st)
R8: 1 sc in each of next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc in next, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 4 st (19 st)
R9:  1 sc in each of next st around (19 st)
R10:  1 sc in each of next st around (19 st)
R11:  1 sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 st (15 st)
R12: *sc, sc2tog* around, FO, leaving long tail for weaving.

Body:
R1: In red, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st ch (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
R3: *1 sc, 2 sc* around (18 st)
R4: *1 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc* around (24 st)
R5-R9: 1 sc in each st around (24 st)
R10: *1 sc, 1 sc, sc2tog* around (18 st)
R11-R12: 1 sc in each st around (18 st)
R13: *2 sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc2tog* around (30 st)
R14: *sc, 2 sc, sc, sc2tog* around, ending at second sc repeat.
R15: *1 sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next * around, sc in last st, FO, leaving long tail for weaving.

Bottom:
R1: In white, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st ch (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
R3: *1 sc, 2 sc* around (18 st)
R4: *1 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc* around, FO leaving long tail for weaving. (24 st)

Tummy:
R1: In white, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st ch (6 st)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
R3: *1 sc, 2 sc* around, FO, leaving long tail for weaving. (18 st)

Eyes (make 2)
R1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 1st ch, FO, leaving long tail for weaving (6 st)

Arms (make 2)
R1: With red, ch 2, 4 sc in 1st ch (4 st)
R2: 2 sc in each st around (8 st)
R3-4: 1 sc in each st around (8 st)
FO, leaving long tail for weaving.

Assembly:

Embroider pupils onto eyes.

Attach Arms to body.

Stuff body, attach white bottom piece to body.

Attach eyes to head.

Embroider smile onto face.

Stuff head, attach to body.

Add hair with short pieces using a latch hook method.

Love your little Ponyo!!!!

Crochet Gypsy Vest, 1969 {Crochet Pattern}

{I found this pattern in a box of random vintage patterns that I received from family.  I love the design, so I posted it here to share in its original form.  Expect me to work it up some time and post my comments and adjustments.  Enjoy!}

The Gypsy Vest Book by Jack Frost (the yarn people), Vol. 75, 1969 

SIZE 36, (40), (45)

MATERIALS:  Crochet hook size "K" - 2 (4 oz.) pull-skeins Wintuk Knitting Worsted Yarn

GAUGE:  3 chains = 1 inch

CHAIN:  108 (small), 124 (medium), 140 (large)

Row 1:  1 sc in 8th chain from hook, * ch 5, 1 sc in 4th chain, * repeat from * to end. (25, 29, 33 large holes and 1/2 hole) 
Row 2:  Ch 5, turn, 1 sc in hole, * ch 5, 1 sc in hole, repeat form * to end.
Piece will measure about 35, 40, 45 inches wide.

Repeat row 2 for pattern.

Work even for 27 rows which is 16 inches, or 1" less than desired length to underarm. 

ARMHOLES:
Row 1:  Right Front:  Ch 3, turn, 1 sc in hole, work across 4, 5, 6 spaces. 
Row 2, 3, & 4:  Ch 5, turn, 1 sc in hole, work in pattern across 3, 4, 5 spaces. 
Row 5:  Ch 3, turn, 1 sc in hole, work across 3, 4, 5 spaces. 
Row 6 - 14:  Ch 5, turn, 1 sc in hole, work across 2, 3, 4 spaces. 
Row 15:  Ch 5, 1 sc in hole, * ch 3, 1 sc in hole, repeat from * 1, 2, 3 times.

To end last stitch, put ball of yarn through the last stitch.  Cut, leaving a 20" tail.

Left Front:  Attach yarn in top of 5, 6, 7th sc in from front edge.
Row 1:  Ch 5, sc in hole, work across 4, 5, 6, spaces. 
Work rows 1 - 13 of right front. 
Work row 15 of right front.
BACK:Attach yarn in top of sc three full spaces in from left front.
Row 1 - 14:  Ch 5, 1 sc in space, work across 10, 12, 14 spaces. 
Row 15:  Ch 5, 1 sc in space, ch 3, 1 sc in space, * ch 3, 1 sc in space, repeat from * across row.

Sew shoulder seams.  Work 1 row sc around piece.  
Weave in all loose ends.  Make a chain of desired length.

Table Topper Doily {crochet pattern}

Table Topper Doily

Blocked Size:          18"
Materials:  1.75 steel crochet hook, size 10 crochet thread


Special Stitches: 
Picot: ch 4, sc in 4th ch from hook.
Beginning shell (bshell): Slip stitch to center of shell or next ch-2 space, work (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 
Shell: work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in space or stitch
Beginning shell increase (bshell inc): Slip stitch to center of shell or next ch-2 space, work (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). 
Shell increase (shell inc): Slip stitch to center of shell or next ch-2 space, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc).
 
Pattern
R1:  Ch 8, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 23 dc in ring, sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (24 dc) 
R2:  Ch 4 (counts as first dc and ch 1), * dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * around, join to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4. 
R3:  Ch 3, dc in next ch-2 sp, (2 dc in next ch-1 sp) around, join to top of beginning ch 3. (48 dc)
R4:  Ch 3, * 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * around, ending 2 dc in last st, join. (72) 
R5:  Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, * 2 dc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts; repeat from * around, join. (24 ch-2 sps) 
R6:  bshell (see Special Stitiches), shell (see Special Stitiches) in each sp around, join. (24 shells)
R7:  bshell, * shell in next shell; repeat from  * around, join. 
R8:  bshell, * ch 1, shell in next shell; repeat  from * around ending last repeat with ch 1, join. 
R9:  bshell, * ch 2, shell in next shell; repeat from * around ending last repeat with ch 2, join. 
R10: bshell, * ch 3, shell in next shell;  repeat from * around ending last repeat with ch 3, 
join.
R11:  bshell, * ch 4, (2dc, ch 5, 2 dc) in next shell, ch 4, ** shell in next shell; repeat from *around ending last repeat at **, join. 
R12:  bshell, * ch 3, 9 tr in ch-5 sp, ch 3 **,  shell in shell; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R13:  bshell, * ch 2, tr in first tr of 9-tr group, (ch 1, tr in next tr) 8 times, ch 2 **, shell in next shell; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R14:  bhell, * ch 3, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times [7 loops], ch 3 **, shell in next shell; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R15:  bhell, * ch 3, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 6 times [6 loops], ch 3 **, shell in next shell; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R16:  bshell inc (see Special Stitches), * ch 3, skip next sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 5 times [5 loops], ch 3 **, shell inc (see Special Stitches) in next shell; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R17:  bshell, * ch 2, shell in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, skip next sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 4 times [4 loops], ch 3 **, shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join. 
R18:  bshell, * shell in next ch-2 sp, shell in shell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 4 times [3 loops], shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R19:  bshell, * ch 2, (2 dc, ch 5, 2 dc) in next shell, * ch 2, shell in shell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 3 times [2 loops], shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R20:  bshell, * ch 3, 9 tr in ch-5 sp, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 2 times [1 loop], ch 3, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R21:  bshell, * ch 3, (tr, ch 1) in each tr, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join.  
R22:  bshell, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp next to tr, ch 3, (sc, in next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 8 times [9 loops], sc in next ch-3 sp close to tr, ch 3, (shell in shell) twice; repeat from * around, join. 
R23:  bshell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 9 times [8 loops], (shell in shell) twice; repeat from* around, join. 
R24:  bshell, ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 8 times [7 loops], shell in shell, ch 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R25:  bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 7 times [6 loops], shell in shell, ch 5, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join.    
R26: bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 6 times [5 loops], shell in shell, ch 2, (shell in 3rd ch of ch-5 sp), ch 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R27:  bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 5 times [4 loops], (shell in shell, shell in ch-2 sp) 2 times, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R28:  bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 4 times [3 loops], shell in shell, ch 2, (shell in shell ch 1) 2 times, shell in shell, ch 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R29:  bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 3 times [2 loops], shell in shell, ch 2, ([dc in next dc] 2 times.  In next ch-2 sp work {2dc, ch 2, 2 dc} dc in next 2 dc) 3 times, ch 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R30: bshell, * ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 2 times [1 loop], shell in shell, ch 2, dc in next dc ([dc in next dc] 3 times.  In next ch-2 sp work {2dc, ch 2, 2 dc} dc in next 3 dc) 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 2, shell in shell; repeat from * around, join. 
R31: bshell, * ch 3, sc in ch-3 loop, ch 3, shell in shell, ch 1, turn. 
R32:  bshell, shell in shell, ch 1 turn. 
R33:  Sl st to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in last dc of 1st shell, picot (see Special Stitches), 2 dc in 1st dc of next shell, sl st in ch-2 sp, finish off. 
Repeat R31-33 to finish off all pineapples, block.

Blocking the Doily

 

The Gypsy Crochet Thing Frilly Dress {Crochet Pattern}

{I found this pattern in a box of random vintage crafts that I received from family.  I figured I would share it here in it's original form.  Please note that I have typed it exactly as it was listed and have not worked the pattern yet myself.  I'll probably work it up at some point and post my comments and adjustments too :)  Enjoy!}

The Gypsy Crochet Thing by Jack Frost (the yarn people),
Volume 79, 1970SIZE:  Dress measurement at bustline:  32", 36", 40"

MATERIALS:  3, 3, 4 (4-oz pull-skeins Jack Frost Wintuk Knitting Worsted type yarn)

"K" crochet hook

Dress is planned for 21" to the underarm, plus a 3-1/2" border which is added later.

GAUGE:  5 spaces = 3 inches.

Chain 56, 62, 68 

ROW 1:  1 DC in the 4th ch, * ch 1, 1 DC in 2nd ch, repeat from  * to the end. Piece will measure 16", 18", 20" wide.  

ROW 2:  Ch 4, turn, 1 DC under the ch 1 space, * ch 1, 1 DC under the next ch 1 space, repeat from the ' across, ending ch 1, 1 DC under the ch 4 space.

Repeat Row 2 for pattern. Work even in pattern for 21 ", or desired length to the underarm.  

ARMHOLES: ROW 3:  Ch 1, turn, slip stitch across 6 stitches (3 spaces), ch 3, 1 DC under the next ch 1 space, work even in pattern across the row, not working the last 3 spaces. Work even on remaining spaces until armhole measures 7, 71/2, 8". End off.  

FRONT: Work the same as the back until 6, 6, 7 rows below the shoulder.  

NECK SHAPING: ROW 4:  Work across 14, 15, 17 spaces (ch 4 plus 14, 15, 17 DC).  

ROW 5:  Ch 2, turn, 1 DC under the second ch 1 space, work even to the end.  

ROW 6:  Work across 12, 13, 15 spaces. Continue in this way to decrease 1 DC each row until the front is the same length as the back. End off.

Attach yarn to the other armhole side, and starting with Row 4, work the other side to correspond.

Sew shoulder and side seams. Work 2 rows of SC around each armhole.  

DIAMOND LACE BORDER:  Starting at the bottom, work 1 SC under any ch 1 space, * pull the loop on the hook up about 3/4 inch, ch 1, ch 1 and pull the loop up 3/4 inch, ch 1, 1 SC in the second ch 1 space, repeat from the * around. 

On the following rows work the SC under the hole of the previous row. Work 5 rows of border around the bottom.

Starting at the top of the 7th row of DC from the bottom, work 5 rows of diamond lace border around the dress. Work one row of border around the neck, working 1 SC under each ch 1 space on the back of the neck, and 1 SC under the first DC on the front, * 2 SC under the next DC, 1 SC under the next DC, repeat from the around. 

Midi Skirt {crochet pattern}

{I found this pattern in a box of random vintage crafts that I received from family.  I figured I would share it here in it's original form.  Please note that I have typed it exactly as it was listed and have not worked the pattern yet myself.  I'll probably work it up at some point and post my comments and adjustments too :)  Enjoy!}

Good Housekeeping Needlecraft,
Spring-Summer 1971

SIZES: Directions are for Size 8. Changes for Sizes 10 and 12 are in parentheses. 

 MATERIALS: Bear Brand, Fleisher's or Botany Twin-Pak Knitting Worsted, (4 oz. paks) 5 (5-6) paks. Crochet Hook sizes F and E or size to give gauge. 1 yard belting or grosgrain ribbon, 1" wide. Hooks and eyes. 7" skirt zipper, 6 buttons.  

GAUGE: Size F hook, 4 sts = 1"; 4 sc rows and 4 dc rows = 3". Size E hook, 13 sc = 2-1/2"; 11 sc rows = 2".  

NOTE: Front and Back of skirt are made with size F hook. Front and Waist bands are made with size E hook. Directions are for skirt 27" long, plus 1" waistband. Make any necessary adjustment after last increase.  

BACK: With size F hook ch 49 (51-54) for waist edge.  

Row 1 (wrong side): Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch -- 48 (50-53) sts.  

Row 2 and All Even Numbered Rows: Turn, sl st in first st, ch 3, work 1 dc in 2nd st and in each remaining st to end; 48 (50-53) sts.   

NOTE: Ch 3 at beg of each dc row counts as 1 dc.  

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each of first 14 (15-16) sts, 2 sc in next St, 1 sc in each of next 18 (18-19) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to end, 50 (52-55) sts.  

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 (13-14) sts; 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 20 (20- 21) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to within 2 sts of end, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last sc; 54 (56-59) sts.  

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each of first 15 (16-17) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 22 (22-23) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to end; 56 (58-61) sts.  

Row 9: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first at, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 13 (14-15) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc  in each of, next 24 (24-25) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to within 2 sts of and, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in  last st; 60 (62-65) sts.  

Row 11: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each of first 16 (17-18) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 26 (26-27) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to end, 62 (64-67) sts. 

 Row 13: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 14 (15-16) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 28 (28-29) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to within 2 sts of end, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st; 66 (68-71) sts. 

 Row 15: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each of first 17 (18-19) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 30 (30-31) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to end; 68 (70-73) sts.  

Row 17: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 15 (16-17) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 32 (32-33) sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to within 2 sts of end, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, 72 (74- 77) sts.  

Row 19: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each st to within 2 sts of end, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st; 74 (76-79) sts. 

 Rows 21 and 23: Same as row 19; 78 (80-83) sts.  

Row 25: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st to end.  

Rows 27, 29, 31, 33: Same as row 19; 86 (88-91) sts.

Repeat rows 24 through 33, three times-110 (112-115) sts. Work even in pat until 26" or  1" less than desired length from beg, end with sc row without inc. Fasten off.
FRONT: Work same as for back. 

 FINISHING: Matching rows and allow for blocking; sew side seams leaving a 7" opening on left side for skirt zipper. Block, stretching 1" in length.  

FRONT BAND: With size E hook, ch 14 for lower edge.  

Row 1: Work 1 Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch; 13 sts. 

 Row 2: Ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each st to end; 13 sts.
Repeat row 2 until 11 rows, about 2-1/2" from beg. 

 BUTTONHOLE ROW: Ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each of first 4 sts, ch 5, skip 5 sts for buttonhole, 1 sc in each of last 4 sts. Continue working sc, repeating buttonhole every 20th row 5 times. Work even until band is same length as center front of skirt. Fasten off. From right side, beg at lower edge, work 1 row sc along one long edge of. band. This edge will not be sewn to skirt. With wrong side of band to right side of skirt, ends of band even with waist and lower edges of skirt, carefully pin, then baste band to center front of skirt as illustrated.  

WAISTBAND: From right side, work 1 row sc along waist edge, working through both thicknesses at upper edge of front band.  

Next Row: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each st. Repeat last row until about 1" from beg, end on right side, working 2 sc in last st for corner, with care to keep work flat, work 1 row sc along both edges of opening, 1 sc in same at as first st, join with sl st in first st. Fasten off. Sew lower edge of front band to lower edge of skirt. Sew one long edge of band to skirt. Sew buttons under buttonholes. Sew in skirt zipper. Face waistband with grosgrain ribbon, holding in to desired size. Sew hooks and eyes to waistband. 

Tote Bag {crochet pattern}

{I found this pattern in a box of random vintage crafts that I received from family.  I figured I would share it here in it's original form.  Please note that I have typed it exactly as it was listed and have not worked the pattern yet myself.  I'll probably work it up at some point and post my comments and adjustments too :)  Enjoy!}

NO TT-1 from This 'n' That Leaflet 2538 - 1971, Columbia-Minerva

MATERIALS:  6 skeins Columbia-Minerva Washable Rug Yarn (1-3/4 oz. pull skeins).

"Boye" Crochet Hook, Size K

GAUGE:  2 sc 10 1"; 2 rows to 1"Note:  Work with double yarn throughout.

SIDES:  With Scarlet, ch 23.Row 1:  Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 22 sc across, ch 1, turn.Row 2:  1 sc in each sc, ch 1, turn.
Repeat Row 2 for 48 more rows.  Fasten off.Gussets:  Ch 10.  work on 9 sc for 20 rows.  Fasten off.  Make 2.Straps:  With Black, ch 26.  Starting in 2nd ch, work 1 sc in each ch to last ch, 3 sc in last ch, then working back on other side of chain, 1 sc in each st. Fasten off.  Make 4.Handles:  With black, ch 38.  Work same as straps.  Make 2.  Baste gussets in place.  On right side with Black work 1 sc and ch 1 in every other row along sides and bottom as shown.  With Black work 2 rows of sc on top edges only of back and front.  Sew straps  in place as shown with 3" extending at top.  Join handles to straps with 1-1/2" metal rings.

Batman Afghan {crochet pattern}

This pattern was a toughie.  It took a long time to get it written and even longer to get it worked up.  I usually write my patterns as I go, so I know exactly where I am.  This one, I chose to write from the beginning, based off of a picture that I graphed out.  There were many revisions along the way, as well as an error that was made very early on (I inserted 1 extra stitch somewhere while working it) and it threw me off and I had to keep in mind that one extra stitch and make sure that I didn't accidentally insert it somewhere along the line in the pattern.

I will not lie... it's very large.  It is the size of my queen bed.  It took me forever, but I think it came out great.  There is a small problem in one of his ears, where I think i shifted the pattern outward.  By this time, I didn't want to deal with it anymore so I left it be.  Perhaps you can find it, and if you do, just let me know!

*Updated on February 26th to include revisions by dedicated readers and a link to a google doc with the original chart that I used to make this blanket- see notes below for further explanations!*

Batman Blanket Crochet Pattern

Materials needed:
7-8 Skeins of Black Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)
2 skeins of Red Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)
a very small amount of White Worsted Weight Yarn (again, I used Red Heart)
Size "H" crochet Hook

*I only used about 2 skeins of red heart, but I actually used parts of four different skeins because there were certain points of the blanket where it was helpful to have more than just two skeins going at once.*

Color will be written out with the number of stitches, followed by the color notation in parentheses, ie (B) = Black or (R) = Red or (W) = White

Turn at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Start with Black, chain 194
R1: dc in 4th ch from the hook, 59 dc (B), join red, 4 dc (R), 128 dc (B)
R2: ch 3 (B), 125 dc(B), 4 dc(R), 62 dc(B)
R3: ch 3 (B), 61 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 126 dc (B)
R4: ch 3 (B), 125 (B), 4 dc (R), 62 dc (B)
R5: join red, ch 3 (R), 1 dc (R), 60 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 126 dc (B)
R6: ch 3 (B), 124 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 59 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R7: ch 3(R), 3 dc (R), 59 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R8: ch 3 (B), 123 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 58 dc (B), 6 dc (R)
R9: ch 3 (B), dc (B), 6 dc (R), 56 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R10: ch 3 (B), 123 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B)
R11: ch 3 (B), 5 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 52 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R12: ch 3 (B), 91 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B)
R13: ch 3 (B), 9 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R14: ch 3 (B), 50 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B)
R15: ch 3 (B), 13 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R16: ch 3 (B), 47 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B)
R17: ch 3 (B) 17 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R18: ch 3 (B), 49 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B)
R19: ch 3 (B), 21 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R20: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 24 dc (B)
R21: ch 3 (B), 25 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 52 dc (B)
R22: ch 3 (B), 55 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 28 dc (B)
R23: ch 3 (B), 29 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 46 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 64 dc (B)
R24: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 46 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 32 dc (B)
R25: ch 3 (B), 33 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R26: ch 3 (B), 59 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 40 dc (B),8 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 36 dc (B)
R27: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R28: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R29: ch 3 (B), 41 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 42 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R30: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 42 dc (B)
R31: ch 3 (B), 43 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 76 (B)
R32: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 46 dc (B)
R33: ch 3 (B), 45 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R34: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 48 dc (B)
R35: ch 3 (B), 49 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 90 dc (B)
R36: ch 3 (B), 103 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R37: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 120 dc (B)
R38: ch 3 (B), 119 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 52 dc (B)
R39: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 120 dc (B)
R40: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 54 dc (B)
R41: ch 3 (B), 55 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 79 dc (B)
R42: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 56 dc (B)
R43: ch 3 (B), 57 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R44: ch 3 (B), 80 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 29 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 11 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R45: join red ch 3 (R), 2 dc (R), 57 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 7 dc (R), 82 dc (B)
R46: ch 3 (B), 81 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 57 dc (B), 5 dc (R)
R47: ch 3 (R), 7 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 84 dc (B)
R48: ch 3 (B), 115 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 5 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 10 dc (R)
R49: ch 3 (R), 11 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 115 dc (B)
R50: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 14 dc (R)
R51: ch 3 (R), 1 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 9 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R52: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 9 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 2 dc (R)
R53: ch 3 (B), 14 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 53 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R54: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 20 dc (B)
R55: ch 3 (B), 21 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R56: ch 3 (B), 112 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 25 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R57: ch 3 (R), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 11 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 112 dc (B)
R58: ch 3 (B), 111 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R)
R59: ch 3 (R), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 148 dc (B)
R60: ch 3 (B), 147 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R61: ch 3 (B), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 148 dc (B)
R62: ch 3 (B), 69 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R)
R63: ch 3 (R), 5 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 23 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 72 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 70 dc (B)
R64: ch 3 (B), 69 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 71 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 11 dc (R)
R65: ch 3 (R), 22 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 68 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 69 dc (B)
R66: ch 3 (B), 67 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 68 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 26 dc (R)
R67: ch 3 (R), 21 dc (R), 62 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 68 dc (B)
R68: ch 3 (B), 39 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 94 dc (B), 24 dc (R)
R69: ch 3 (R), 27 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 61 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R70: ch 3 (B), 39 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 27 dc (R), 5 dc (B)
R71: ch 3 (B), 10 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R72: ch 3 (B), 41 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B)
R73: ch 3 (B), 5 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 5 dc (B), 9 dc *R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 76 dc (B)
R74: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 8 dc (B)
R75: ch 3 (B), 11 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 52 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 38 dc (B)
R76: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 14 dc (B)
R77: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 17 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 29 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 42 dc (B)
R78: ch 3 (B), 45 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 32 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 17 dc (R)
R79: ch 3 (R), 39 dc (R), 11 dc (B), 28 dc (R), 15 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (W), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R80: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (W), 6 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (W), 4 dc (B), 33 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 43 dc (R)
R81: ch 3 (R), 80 dc (R), 2 dc B(), 7 dc (W), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 2 dc (W), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 56 dc (B)
R82: ch 3 (B), 59 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 3 dc (W), 83 dc (R)
R83: ch 3 (R), 79 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 68 dc (B)
R84: ch 3 (B), 61 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 84 dc (R)
R85: ch 3 (R), 81 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 64 dc (B)
R86: ch 3 (B), 109 dc (B), 26 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 34 dc (R), 2 dc (B)
R87: ch 3 (B), 7 dc (B), 24 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 110 dc (B)
R88: ch 3 (B), 107 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 14 dc (B)
R89: ch 3 (B), 63 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 108 dc (B)
R90: ch 3 (B), 107 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 66 dc (B)
R91: ch 3 (B), 65 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 107 dc (B)
R92: ch 3 (B), 106 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 66 dc (B)
R93: ch 3 (B), 67 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 106 dc (B)
R94: ch 3 (B), 103 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 70 dc (B)
R95: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 102 dc (B)
R96: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R97: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 78 dc (B)
R98: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 30 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R99: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 28 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R100: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 26 dc (R) 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R101: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R102: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 34 dc (R), 76 dc (B)
R103: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R104: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 78 dc (B)
R105: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R106: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 79 dc (B)
R107: ch 3 (B), 78 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R108: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R109:  ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 4 d c(R), 33 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 73 dc (B)
R110: ch 3 (B), 72 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R111: ch 3 (B), 80 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 73 dc (B)
R112: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 31 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 82 dc (B)
R113: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R114: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 84 dc (B)
R115: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 105 dc (B)
R116: ch 3 (B), 104 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 85 dc (B)
R117: ch 3 (B), 84 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 105 dc (B)
R118: ch 3 (B), 104 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 86 dc (B)
R119: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R120: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R121: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R122:  ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R123:  ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R124: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R125: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
Finish Off, Weave in Ends.

*note: if some of your edges are too "cut" for your taste, try fleshing them out a little while you weave in your ends!  I did that for mine and it worked out great!

{edits made to correct rows 38-45 on 5/13.  There are still errors in the following rows: 59-61, 80, 88, 110}

{edits made to correct rows 59-61, 80, 88, 101, 108 and 110 made on 2/26/14.  I think this corrects all of the known errors in the pattern.  If you find more, please let me know!

Also, i have uploaded the original chart that I used for this pattern.  You can see that there are some subtle variations in color and this is where I would work half the square (as you work 2 stitches for each square across a single row) in one color and the other half in the other.  With the chart, you can use your own judgement.  Enjoy!

Batman Crochet/Knit Chart