Batman Afghan {crochet pattern}

This pattern was a toughie.  It took a long time to get it written and even longer to get it worked up.  I usually write my patterns as I go, so I know exactly where I am.  This one, I chose to write from the beginning, based off of a picture that I graphed out.  There were many revisions along the way, as well as an error that was made very early on (I inserted 1 extra stitch somewhere while working it) and it threw me off and I had to keep in mind that one extra stitch and make sure that I didn't accidentally insert it somewhere along the line in the pattern.

I will not lie... it's very large.  It is the size of my queen bed.  It took me forever, but I think it came out great.  There is a small problem in one of his ears, where I think i shifted the pattern outward.  By this time, I didn't want to deal with it anymore so I left it be.  Perhaps you can find it, and if you do, just let me know!

*Updated on February 26th to include revisions by dedicated readers and a link to a google doc with the original chart that I used to make this blanket- see notes below for further explanations!*

Batman Blanket Crochet Pattern

Materials needed:
7-8 Skeins of Black Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)
2 skeins of Red Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart)
a very small amount of White Worsted Weight Yarn (again, I used Red Heart)
Size "H" crochet Hook

*I only used about 2 skeins of red heart, but I actually used parts of four different skeins because there were certain points of the blanket where it was helpful to have more than just two skeins going at once.*

Color will be written out with the number of stitches, followed by the color notation in parentheses, ie (B) = Black or (R) = Red or (W) = White

Turn at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Start with Black, chain 194
R1: dc in 4th ch from the hook, 59 dc (B), join red, 4 dc (R), 128 dc (B)
R2: ch 3 (B), 125 dc(B), 4 dc(R), 62 dc(B)
R3: ch 3 (B), 61 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 126 dc (B)
R4: ch 3 (B), 125 (B), 4 dc (R), 62 dc (B)
R5: join red, ch 3 (R), 1 dc (R), 60 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 126 dc (B)
R6: ch 3 (B), 124 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 59 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R7: ch 3(R), 3 dc (R), 59 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R8: ch 3 (B), 123 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 58 dc (B), 6 dc (R)
R9: ch 3 (B), dc (B), 6 dc (R), 56 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R10: ch 3 (B), 123 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B)
R11: ch 3 (B), 5 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 52 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 124 dc (B)
R12: ch 3 (B), 91 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B)
R13: ch 3 (B), 9 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R14: ch 3 (B), 50 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B)
R15: ch 3 (B), 13 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R16: ch 3 (B), 47 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B)
R17: ch 3 (B) 17 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R18: ch 3 (B), 49 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B)
R19: ch 3 (B), 21 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R20: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 24 dc (B)
R21: ch 3 (B), 25 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 52 dc (B)
R22: ch 3 (B), 55 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 48 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 28 dc (B)
R23: ch 3 (B), 29 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 46 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 64 dc (B)
R24: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 46 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 32 dc (B)
R25: ch 3 (B), 33 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R26: ch 3 (B), 59 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 40 dc (B),8 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 36 dc (B)
R27: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R28: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R29: ch 3 (B), 41 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 42 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R30: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 42 dc (B)
R31: ch 3 (B), 43 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 76 (B)
R32: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 46 dc (B)
R33: ch 3 (B), 45 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R34: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 48 dc (B)
R35: ch 3 (B), 49 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 90 dc (B)
R36: ch 3 (B), 103 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R37: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 120 dc (B)
R38: ch 3 (B), 119 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 52 dc (B)
R39: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 120 dc (B)
R40: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 54 dc (B)
R41: ch 3 (B), 55 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 79 dc (B)
R42: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 56 dc (B)
R43: ch 3 (B), 57 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R44: ch 3 (B), 80 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 29 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 11 dc (R), 58 dc (B)
R45: join red ch 3 (R), 2 dc (R), 57 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 7 dc (R), 82 dc (B)
R46: ch 3 (B), 81 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 57 dc (B), 5 dc (R)
R47: ch 3 (R), 7 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 84 dc (B)
R48: ch 3 (B), 115 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 5 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 10 dc (R)
R49: ch 3 (R), 11 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 115 dc (B)
R50: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 54 dc (B), 14 dc (R)
R51: ch 3 (R), 1 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 9 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R52: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 51 dc (B), 9 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 2 dc (R)
R53: ch 3 (B), 14 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 53 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R54: ch 3 (B), 113 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 20 dc (B)
R55: ch 3 (B), 21 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 114 dc (B)
R56: ch 3 (B), 112 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 25 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R57: ch 3 (R), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 11 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 112 dc (B)
R58: ch 3 (B), 111 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R)
R59: ch 3 (R), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 148 dc (B)
R60: ch 3 (B), 147 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 3 dc (R)
R61: ch 3 (B), 2 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 148 dc (B)
R62: ch 3 (B), 69 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R)
R63: ch 3 (R), 5 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 23 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 72 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 70 dc (B)
R64: ch 3 (B), 69 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 71 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 11 dc (R)
R65: ch 3 (R), 22 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 68 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 69 dc (B)
R66: ch 3 (B), 67 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 68 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 26 dc (R)
R67: ch 3 (R), 21 dc (R), 62 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 68 dc (B)
R68: ch 3 (B), 39 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 94 dc (B), 24 dc (R)
R69: ch 3 (R), 27 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 61 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R70: ch 3 (B), 39 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 27 dc (R), 5 dc (B)
R71: ch 3 (B), 10 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 40 dc (B)
R72: ch 3 (B), 41 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B)
R73: ch 3 (B), 5 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 40 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 5 dc (B), 9 dc *R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 76 dc (B)
R74: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 8 dc (B)
R75: ch 3 (B), 11 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 34 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 52 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 38 dc (B)
R76: ch 3 (B), 37 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 50 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 10 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 36 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 14 dc (B)
R77: ch 3 (B), 51 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 17 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 29 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 42 dc (B)
R78: ch 3 (B), 45 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 14 dc (B), 32 dc (R), 22 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 3 dc (B), 17 dc (R)
R79: ch 3 (R), 39 dc (R), 11 dc (B), 28 dc (R), 15 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 4 dc (W), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 50 dc (B)
R80: ch 3 (B), 53 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 6 dc (W), 6 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 4 dc (W), 4 dc (B), 33 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 43 dc (R)
R81: ch 3 (R), 80 dc (R), 2 dc B(), 7 dc (W), 6 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 2 dc (W), 2 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 56 dc (B)
R82: ch 3 (B), 59 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 3 dc (W), 83 dc (R)
R83: ch 3 (R), 79 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 24 dc (B), 10 dc (R), 68 dc (B)
R84: ch 3 (B), 61 dc (B), 16 dc (R), 26 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 84 dc (R)
R85: ch 3 (R), 81 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 14 dc (R), 64 dc (B)
R86: ch 3 (B), 109 dc (B), 26 dc (R), 20 dc (B), 34 dc (R), 2 dc (B)
R87: ch 3 (B), 7 dc (B), 24 dc (R), 28 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 110 dc (B)
R88: ch 3 (B), 107 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 38 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 14 dc (B)
R89: ch 3 (B), 63 dc (B), 20 dc (R), 108 dc (B)
R90: ch 3 (B), 107 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 66 dc (B)
R91: ch 3 (B), 65 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 107 dc (B)
R92: ch 3 (B), 106 dc (B), 19 dc (R), 66 dc (B)
R93: ch 3 (B), 67 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 106 dc (B)
R94: ch 3 (B), 103 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 70 dc (B)
R95: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 102 dc (B)
R96: ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 16 dc (B), 18 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R97: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 12 dc (R), 12 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 78 dc (B)
R98: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 30 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R99: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 28 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R100: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 1 dc (B), 26 dc (R) 6 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R101: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 6 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 2 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R102: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 34 dc (R), 76 dc (B)
R103: ch 3 (B), 75 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 4 dc (B), 22 dc (R), 8 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R104: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 18 dc (B), 8 dc (R), 7 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 78 dc (B)
R105: ch 3 (B), 77 dc (B), 6 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R106: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 32 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 79 dc (B)
R107: ch 3 (B), 78 dc (B), 5 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 72 dc (B)
R108: ch 3 (B), 71 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R109:  ch 3 (B), 79 dc (B), 4 d c(R), 33 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 73 dc (B)
R110: ch 3 (B), 72 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 4 dc (R), 80 dc (B)
R111: ch 3 (B), 80 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 33 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 73 dc (B)
R112: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 31 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 82 dc (B)
R113: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 74 dc (B)
R114: ch 3 (B), 73 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 30 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 84 dc (B)
R115: ch 3 (B), 83 dc (B), 3 dc (R), 105 dc (B)
R116: ch 3 (B), 104 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 85 dc (B)
R117: ch 3 (B), 84 dc (B), 2 dc (R), 105 dc (B)
R118: ch 3 (B), 104 dc (B), 1 dc (R), 86 dc (B)
R119: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R120: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R121: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R122:  ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R123:  ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R124: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
R125: ch 3 (B), 191 dc (B)
Finish Off, Weave in Ends.

*note: if some of your edges are too "cut" for your taste, try fleshing them out a little while you weave in your ends!  I did that for mine and it worked out great!

{edits made to correct rows 38-45 on 5/13.  There are still errors in the following rows: 59-61, 80, 88, 110}

{edits made to correct rows 59-61, 80, 88, 101, 108 and 110 made on 2/26/14.  I think this corrects all of the known errors in the pattern.  If you find more, please let me know!

Also, i have uploaded the original chart that I used for this pattern.  You can see that there are some subtle variations in color and this is where I would work half the square (as you work 2 stitches for each square across a single row) in one color and the other half in the other.  With the chart, you can use your own judgement.  Enjoy!

Batman Crochet/Knit Chart

At Home Vest and Pants {Crochet Pattern}

McCall's Step-By-Step Crochet Lesson for Beginners, 1971 

Embroidered vest tops wide-flaring pants, for at-home elegance. Pants, worked in single and double crochet, are lined. The single crochet vest is embroidered with chained feather stitch, straight stitch, French knots, couching, lazy daisy stitch, and cable stitch.

SIZES:  10 to 16 (see pattern for body measurements)

PANTS:
SIZES: Directions for size 10. Changes for sizes 12, 14 and 16 are in parentheses. 
Body Waist: 24" (25-1/2 -27"-29").  
Blocked Waist Size (closed): 25" (26"-28"-30").  
Blocked Hip Size: 36" (38"-40"- 42").  

MATERIALS: Wintuk sport yarn, 2 ply, 12 (13-14-15) 2-oz. skeins camel. Aluminum crochet hook size E. One 1/2" button. One large hook and eye. 7" skirt zipper. One yard 1/2" elastic. 2-1/2 yards lining material. Matching sewing thread.  
GAUGE: 5 sts=1"; 4 rows=1". 
  
PANTS: 
RIGHT BACK: Beg at upper edge, ch 9.  
First Short Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 8 sc. Ch 1, turn.  
2nd Short Row: Sc in each of 7 sc, 3 sc in last sc--10 sc. Ch 22 (24-26-28). Turn.  
Next Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 20 (22-24-26) ch, sc in each sc across-31 (33-35-37)  sc. Ch 1, turn.
 
Pattern: 
Row 1 (wrong side): Sc in first sc, * dc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across--31 (33- 35-37) sts. Mark end of this row for center  back. (Note: Mark this row for right side on left back.) Turn. Check gauge; last row should measure 6" (6-1/2"-7"-7-1/2') wide. 
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first sc, * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. 
Row 3: Sc in first dc, * dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from across--31 (33-35-37) sts. Turn.  
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in first sc (inc made), * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across, end 2 dc in last sc (inc made). Turn. 
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across, end sc in next dc, sc in top of ch 3--33 (35-37-39) sts. Ch 1, turn.   
Row 6: Sc in first sc, * dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from * across, end dc in last sc, sc in top of ch 3.
Rows 7-21: (Repeat rows 4-6) 5 times, end center back edge-43 (45-47-49) sts. Turn.  
Row 22: Ch 3, dc in first sc (inc made), * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 23: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end sc in last dc, sc in top of ch 3. Turn. 
Row 24: Ch 3, sc in first sc (inc made), dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from * across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. (Note:  I am not sure where the * is--this is exactly as written in the book.) 
Row 25: Sc in first dc, dc in next sc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc, sc in top of ch 3-45 (47-49- 51) sts. Turn. Repeat rows (22-25) 5 (5-6-6) times--55 (57-61-63) sts. If necessary, work even until piece measures 11-1/2" (12"-13"13-1/2") from start, end center back edge. Ch 6 (6-6-8) for crotch, turn. 
Crotch Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (dc in next ch, sc in next ch) 2 (2-2-3) times, work in pat across--60 (62-66-70) sts. Mark each side of last row for start of leg. 
Leg: Work even until leg measures 7" from marker, end center back edge. Ch 1, turn.  
Shape Leg: Row 1: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end 2 dc in last sc (inc made). Turn.  
Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, sc in next dc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end sc and dc in top of ch 3 (inc made). Ch 1, turn.  
Row 4: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat these 4 rows 8 times - 78 (80-84-88) sts. Work even until piece measures 26-1/2" (27"-27-1/2"-28") from marker or 1" less (stretch allowance) than desired leg length.  
Side Edging: From right side, work 1 row sc on each side edge, including crotch, being careful to keep work flat.
LEFT BACK: Work as for right back, noting changes. Work side edgings, being careful to have piece reverse of right back. 
LEFT FRONT: Work as for right back, having end of first pat row at center front, until 25th row is completed--45 (47-49-51) sts. Repeat rows (22-25) 4 (4-5-5) times--53 (55-59-61) sts. If necessary, work even until piece measures 10-1/2" (11"-12"-12-1/2") from start, end center front edge. Ch 6 (6-6-8) for crotch, turn.  
Next Row: Work as for crotch row of right back--58 (60-64-68) sts. Mark each side of last row for start of leg. 
 Leg: Work evenly until leg measures 6" from marker, end center front edge. Ch 1, turn.  
Shape Leg: Rows 1-4: Work as for right back. Repeat these 4 rows 9 times--78 (80-84-88) sts. Complete as for right back. Work side edgings.  
RIGHT FRONT: Work as for left front, mark first pat row for right side. Work side edgings. 
 FINISHING: Steam-press pieces. Using pieces for pattern, cut lining, allowing 1/2" on all edges for seams and 1" on each piece at waistline for darts. Weave center front seam to crotch markers. Leaving 7" opening at upper edge, weave center back seam to crotch. Weave side and leg seams. From right side, work 1 rnd sc around lower edge of each leg.
 
Waistband: From right side, beg at left side of opening, work 1 row sc around waistline, ch 10 for over- lap. Turn. 
Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch and st across. Ch 1, turn each row.  
Rows 3-5: Sc in each sc across. At end of last row, do not turn, sc in edge of each of 5 rows. Ch 1, turn. 
Buttonloop: Sc in first sc, ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc, turn, sl st in each of 5 ch, sl st in sc. End off.  
Casing: Work casing on inside of waistband. Cut elastic 1" longer than waist measurement; insert in casing. Sew ends securely. Sew zipper in opening below waistband.
     Assemble lining. Insert lining, hem lining to lower edge of waistband. Hem lining 1" shorter than legs. Fasten overlap with a hook and eye. Sew button inside waistband under buttonloop. Steam-press lightly on wrong side.
  
VEST: 
SIZES: Directions for size 10. Changes for sizes 12, 14 and 16 are in parentheses.  
Body Bust Size: 32-1/2" (34"-36"-38").  
Blocked Bust Size: 34", (36"-38"-40").  

MATERIALS: Wintuk sport yarn, 2 ply, 4 (4-5-5) 2-oz. skeins violet, main color (MC). Alum. hook size H.  
For Embroidery: 1 skein camel (A) and 1/2 oz. each of red (B) and white (C). Tapestry needle No. 18.
  
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1"; 9 rows = 2". 
To Bind Off: At beg of a row, ch 1, sl st loosely across specified sts;  at end of a row, leave specified sts unworked.  
To Dec 1 St: At beg of a row, ch 1, loosely pull up a lp in each of 2 sts, yo and through 3 lps on hook;     at end of a row, pull up a lp in each of last 2 sts, yo and through 3 lps on hook.  
To Inc 1 St: Work 2 sc in same sc.  

VEST: BACK: Beg at lower edge with MC, ch 69 (73-77-81).  
Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 68 (72-76-80) sc. Ch 1, turn.  
Row 2: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn each row. Repeat this row until piece measures 15-1/2" (15-1/2"- 16"-16") from start or desired length to underarm. Check gauge; piece is 17" (18"-19"-20") wide.   
Shape Armholes: Bind off (see To Bind Off above) 4 sts each side of next row. Dec 1 St (see To Dec 1 St above) each side every row 3 (4-5-5) times--54 (56-58-62) sc. Work even until armholes measure 7" (7-1/2"-8-"-8-1/12") above first bound-off sts.  
Shape Neck and Shoulders: Bind off first 4 sts, ch 1, sc in each of next 14 (15-16-17) sc, drop yarn; with another strand of MC, make lp on hook, sk next 18 (18-18-20) sc, sc in next sc, sc in each of next 13 (14-15-16) sc--14 (15-16-17) sc each side. Working on both sides at once, dec 1 St at each neck edge every other row twice; at the same time, bind off 3 sts at each armhole edge every row 3 times. End off.  

LEFT FRONT: Beg at lower edge, with MC, ch 23 (25-25-27). 
Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 22 (24-24-26) sc. Ch 1, turn each row. Mark end of first row for center edge. (On right front, mark beg of first row for center edge.) Work in sc, inc 1 St (see To Inc 1 St above) at front edge every row 12 (12-14-14) times - 34 (36-38-40) sc. Check gauge; last row should measure 8-1/2" (9"-9-1/2"-10") wide. Work even until piece measures 15-1/2" (15-1/2"-16"-16") from start, end side edge.  
Shape Armhole and Neck: Bind off 4 sts at beg of next row. Dec 1 St at arm side every row 3 (4-5-5) times; at the same time, dec 1 St at neck edge every 4th row 9 (9-9-10) times--18 (19-20-21) sc. Work even, if necessary until piece measures same as back to shoulder, end arm side.  
Shape Shoulder: Bind off 4 sts at beg of arm side once, 3 sts every row 3 times; at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge every other row twice. End off.  
RIGHT FRONT: Work same as left front, reverse shaping, note changes.  

FINISHING: Steam-press pieces. Weave shoulder and side seams. 

BUTTON: Beg at center with A, ch 2.  
Rnd 1: 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join.  
Rnds 2 and 3: Sc in each sc around.  
Next Rnd: (Sc in each of next 2 sc, dec 1 sc) around. Stuffing button with scraps of A, repeat around until 5 sc remain. End off, leaving an 8" length. Draw sts tog; sew to vest after embroidery is completed. 

Edging: 
Rnd 1: From right side, beg at lower left side seam, with MC, work 1 rnd sc around entire outer edge, keeping work flat, join with a sl st in first sc. Cut MC; join A. Do not turn.  
Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around. 
Rnd 3: SI st in each sc around. End off. With MC, from right side, work 1 row sc around each armhole, keeping work flat. When embroidery is completed, sew button to left front edge at start of neck decs. With MC, make ch of 6 sts; sl st in each ch and attach to right front edge for buttonloop.  

Embroidery: See chart for placement of embroidery on vest. Each square represents 1". With basting thread or pins, mark line 1-1/2" in from edge all around vest. See image below for all embroidery stitches. With 2 strands of A in needle, embroider over line in cable stitch. With 2 strands of A, using straight stitches, embroider pointed border outside cable stitch, each point formed by 3 straight stitches, crossed by a short stitch and tipped with a French knot. With single strand of B, embroider border of chained feather stitch just inside cable stitch. With 2 strands of A for laid thread and single strand for couching, make lines on fronts only about 3-1/2" long and 2" apart at right angles to border; see chart for position of lines at curves. Work zigzag line of couching from border in to center point of lines and back again to border. Work another zigzag line completing diamond shapes. In each diamond, with 2 strands of B, work 2 lazy daisy stitches, making a straight stitch in center of each daisy petal. With single strand of C, work 4 French knots in each diamond; connect with straight stitches.  

*Disclosure:
I found this pattern in a book while going through some stuff that I was given from some family members.  I thought it was cool and couldn't find it anywhere else, so I'm sharing it with you.  I really want to make the pants in a very soft bamboo yarn... wouldn't those be lovely?  So in other words, it's not my pattern, and I've never tried it.  If you try it, (either the vest or the pants) I would love to see what you do with it, and when I'm all through holiday crafting, I'm going to try it (and probably edit the pattern in some way, shape or form) and I'll share it with you!  

Basket Weave Washcloth {crochet pattern}

The Holidays are Coming!!!

This means that I'm in full out crafting mode, creating lots of awesome new things that I can't share yet... which is killing me!!!!  After the holidays are over, you'll be treated with lots of new patterns, projects and the like, and for now, you just have to be patient. To ease the wait, here's a simple washcloth pattern that you can whip up in less than an hour, and it's easily taken with you for working on while riding in a car or bus or waiting for an appointment.  They're great for lots of uses, I have a whole stack in my bathroom :)

Basket Weave Washcloth

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Materials needed:
Cotton yarn, I use Sugar and Cream or Peaches and Cream
Size "I" Hook

Instructions:
Ch 26 (last 2 ch form first dc)

R1:  dc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn (32 st)
R2:  ch 2, FPDC, * BPDC in next 4dc, FPDC in next 4dc* repeat 2x, BPDC in next 4 st, FPDC, dc into turning chain from previous row, turn.
R3:  ch 2, BPDC, * BPDC in next 4dc, FPDC in next 4dc* repeat 2x, BPDC in next 4 st, FPDC, dc into turning chain from previous row, turn.
R4: ch 2, FPDC, *FPDC in next 4 dc, BPDC in next 4 dc* repeat 2x, FPDC in next 4 st, BPDC, dc into turning chain from previous row, turn.
R5: ch 2, BPDC, *FPDC in next 4 dc, BPDC in next 4 dc* repeat 2x, FPDC in next 4 st, BPDC, dc into turning chain from previous row, turn.

Repeat Row 2-5 until your piece is square.

Finish off and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy making these for your family and friends!

Common Crochet Fails and How to Fix Them

Fails.  Everyone has them.
In some cases, the pattern is destined to fail.  In others, the yarn artist is the cause of the problem.

I have had both happen to me.  It's not just something that happens once in a while either, nor has it really gotten better with time.  Some types of patterns, and certain items just seem to be beyond my mental grasp.

Sometimes it's a matter of knowing what "fails" to expect, how to fix what you can and should and how to let go of the things you can't.

I've recently suffered from two major fails, which I'll discuss here.

Fail #1:
Your item comes out too large (or too small)

Whoops.  If you're like me, this discovery comes at a point in which it feels pointless to turn back.  In some things, the size of your item doesn't matter.  For example, you're making a washcloth.  It comes out the size of a towel.  Poof!  It's a towel!  You've just accomplished a magic trick!  In other cases, it really matters, ie.  Wow, this sweater I was making for baby Mae looks like it could fit uncle Joe!  Now will uncle Joe appreciate this fluffy pink sweater?  Probably not.

How to prevent problems with size:

Make a gauge swatch.  Most good patterns, if they are size relevant, have a gauge swatch measurement that tells you how many stitches and how many rows equals what size.  ie: I Hook: 15 rows of 12 sc= 4"x4"-  this means that when crocheting with an I hook, if you crochet a square with 12 sc in each row over 15 rows, you should have a 4"x4" square at the end.  If your square is larger, try going down a hook size.  If your square is smaller, go up a hook size.


Fail #2:

Makers Remorse: You made it, and now you hate it.

I've done this several times, been halfway through, or through a pattern and I hate it.  It's ugly, it would look better in pink, I will never ever keep this.

How to repair makers remorse:

Ever heard the phrase: One man's trash is another man's treasure?  Just because you hate it doesn't mean someone else won't.  So that lime green hat was a bad idea and totally clashes with your blonde hair.... Gift it to your crazy aunt Donna!  Sell it on Etsy!  Donate it!  Great organizations like Halos of Hope thrive off of donations of any sort, and there is bound to be a guy or gal out there that would LOVE that hat!  (also, if you ever make a hat that is too big or small to wear or give to someone, donate it!  Heads come in every size and I'm sure that someone somewhere will have the perfect head for that hat!)  I guarantee that if you find someone else to love it, you'll love it for how it made that person feel.

Have you ever had a mishap with crochet or knitting?  If so, I'd love to hear about how you dealt with the problem! :)

An Amazing Honor and Fun Opportunity!

I've been kind of missing in action lately, and for that I apologize.  Sometimes there's just so much going on IRL that I lose track of which way is up!  This month has been no exception! 

Today, I'm bringing wonderful news that I've hoarded to myself for a while now, while plans have been finalized and I've been trying to make sure I'm really awake and not dreaming.  (*pinches self again*)

A wonderful organization named Halos Of Hope recently contacted me.

 If you haven't heard of them, they're a wonderfully selfless organization that collects, creates and distributes hats to men, women and children who are battling cancer.  They collect hats from all across the USA and distribute them to hospitals, cancer centers and the like and they are handed out free to patients everywhere.  They found one of my favorite patterns, The Arrow Hat, and asked if they might have my permission to hand it out at their booth this year during the Stitches Midwest Convention!  They chose my pattern because it's a nice manly style for a beanie, but when worked in soft feminine colors, it's also a nice women's hat. 

My Arrow Hat

Of course I said yes!  I think they're a wonderful organization and love to help out wherever I can, and if I can crochet while doing it, even better!  They also asked if I would come to the convention and sign patterns and answer questions at the booth one afternoon.  Since it's close to where I live (and I have a dear relative/bff who lives near there) I figured that would be fun too!  So I've been working my hooks like mad creating some new hats to take with me to donate to their cause, and I can't wait to go and meet the people who help run this wonderful organization.

Some of the fantastic yarns I'm making hats from right now :)

If you're in the Schaumberg, IL area and would like to meet me, the woman behind the blog, feel free to stop by Stitches Midwest at the Halos for Hope booth and see me on Saturday, August 11 between 12-2 pm!  I would love to see you there!  (And if you come, bonus points if you bring a hat to donate to this awesome cause!)

The Awesome Hook Holder {Crochet Pattern}

First I would like to say that I whipped this up one day when I was mad that my current hook holder wouldn't hold all of my hooks because some were larger and it also wasn't long enough for my dpns!  Thus I made this pattern for my collection of beloved hooks.  You can even store your tiny yarn needles in here!  This set stores about half of my collection, which is four sets of dpns, and 20 hooks all ranging from 1.3mm (10) to 11.5mm(P)  I could probably also throw a few more in there as well.

This is the pattern for my shorter hook set.  You can, as I have, customize this to accommodate your set and your needs.  You can use my pattern as a starting point for your own custom hook holder.

The set pictured will hold most standard metal and plastic hooks, as well as dpns or knitting needles that measure about 8" in length and most standard length crochet hooks. 

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

The Awesome Hook Holder

Materials:
"H" Hook
1 skein of worsted weight yarn

Directions:

Note, this pattern uses the star stitch (just in case you'd like to adapt the stitch to a different pattern)

ch 63

Row 1. Skip 1 ch. and draw up a loop in each of next 5 sts., Y.O., and draw through 6 loops on hook, ch. 1, * draw a loop through the eye formed by the ch. just made, draw a loop through back of last loop of star just made, draw a loop through same ch. where last loop of previous star was made, draw a loop through each of next 2 ch. sts., Y.O. and draw through the 6 loops on hook. ch. 1. Repeat from * to end of row.

Row 2. Ch. 1, sl. st. in 1st st. of previous row, ch. 3, skip 1 st., and draw a loop through each of the next 2 ch., draw a loop through 1st st. in row, draw a loop through each of next 2 sts., picking up the back of st. only, Y.O. and draw through all sts. on hook. * Draw a loop through the eye formed by the ch. just made, draw a loop through back of last loop of star just made, draw a loop through same ch. where last loop of previous star was made, draw a loop through each of next 2 sts., picking up back of sts. only, Y.O., and draw through the 6 loops on hook, ch. 1. Repeat from * to end.


Row 3-19: Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off at the end of Row 19.

Border: sc around, with 3 sc in each of the four corners.

Tie Closure: In the middle of the shorter side, attach your yarn and chain 40, fasten off, then reattach in the same spot as before and make another chain, then fasten off.  These will wrap around the hook holder once you roll it up for storage and allow you to tie it shut.

Ways to customize your hook holder:

To store longer needles, simply increase the rows in the solid block before the border.  Work the border in the same manner.

To store more hooks, add stitches in this manner:

Increase your beginning chain by 2 for every star stitch that you want to add.  Increase each row with however many stars that you wanted to add.  (The starting pattern has 30 star stitches across, as a reference)  Each star stitch will add about 1/2" to the length of your pattern.

The Midorie Blanket {Crochet Pattern}

I've named this blanket the Midorie Blanket.

It was NOT a planned blanket.  I have this friend at work who had me make a baby blanket a year or two ago when her goddaughter was born, and she came to me in a pinch- Can you have a blanket ready in about a week, she asked....  Not an easy task.  At first, i thought I was going to have to tell her no, but I looked over some of my in-the-works projects and saw some octagons that would be perfect for it.  They were white, which is what she wanted and I thought, I could take these, and form a new blanket out of them!

Thus, the Midorie Blanket was born.  Never would I thought that I would be able to have it done in time!

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

 Blanket measures roughly 36" square.

Materials Needed:

About 2 skeins of white Red Heart Yarn
1 skein of Lavender Caron Simply Soft Yarn
"H" hook


Motif 1: 

(Make 5)
Ch 4. Join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
R1: Ch 1. (1 sc. Ch 11) 7 times in ring. 1 sc in ring. Ch 6. Join with dtr to first sc.
R2: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dtr. (Ch 5. 1 sc in next ch-11 sp) 7 times. Ch 5. Join with sl st to first sc.
R3: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3). *1 dc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp. Ch 3.** 1 dc in next sc. Ch 3. Rep from * around, ending at **. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.
R4: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as last sl st. Ch 3. (Yoh and draw up a loop in side of sc just worked. Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook – cluster made. Miss next ch-3 sp. *1 sc in next dc. Ch 3. Cluster in last sc. Miss next ch-3 sp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc.
R5: Ch 8 (counts as 1 dc and ch 5). *1 dc in next sc. Ch 5. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 8.
R6: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as last sl st. *Ch 3. Cluster in last sc. 1 sc in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp. Ch 3. 1 sc in next dc. Rep from * around, omitting sc at end of last rep. Join with sl st to first sc.
R7: Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as last sl st. *Ch 5. Miss next cluster and sc. (1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Ch 5.** Miss next cluster and sc. 1 sc in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * around, ending at **. Miss last cluster, sc and ch-3 sp. Join with sl st to first sc.
R8: Sl st in next ch-5 sp. Ch 2 (does not count as hdc). (2 hdc. 3 dc) in same ch-5 sp. *(1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next ch-2 sp. (3 dc. 2 hdc) in next ch-5 sp.** (2 hdc. 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * around, ending at **. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.


Motif 2:

(Make 4)
Ch 6. Join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
R1: Ch 1. 16 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc.
R2: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc.*Ch 5. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to last sc. Ch 5. Miss last sc. Join with sl st to
first sc.
R3: Ch 1. *(1 sc. 1 hdc. 5 dc. 1 hdc. 1 sc) in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
R4: Join yarn with sl st to any center dc of 5-dc group. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp as sl st. *Ch 5. 1 sc in center dc of next 5-dc group. Rep from * around. Ch 5. Join with sl st to first sc.
R5: Sl st in first ch-5 sp. Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). [1 dc. Ch 2. (1 dc. Ch 1) twice] in same ch-5 sp. *[1 dc. Ch 1. 1 dc. Ch 2. (1 dc. Ch 1) twice] in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 4.
R6: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in next dc. *(1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next ch-2 sp. (1 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * to last ch-2 sp. (1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in last ch-2 sp. (1 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
R7: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). Miss next dc. 1 dc in next dc. Ch 1. Miss next dc. *(1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next ch-2 sp. (Ch 1. Miss next dc. 1 dc in next dc) 4 times. Ch 1. Miss next dc. Rep from * to last ch-2 sp. (1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in last ch-2 sp. (Ch 1. Miss next dc. 1 dc in next dc) twice. Ch 1. Miss last dc. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 4.
R8: Ch 3 (counts as dc). (1 dc in next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in next dc) twice. *(1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next ch-2 sp. (1 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * to last ch-2 sp. (1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in last ch-2. sp. (1 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.


Motif 3:

(Make 4)
Ch 4. Join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
R1: Working into ring: Ch 3. 4 dc. Drop loop from hook. Insert hook from front to back through top of ch 3, then through dropped loop. Yoh and pull through both loops on hook – Beg Popcorn made. Ch 3. *5 dc. Drop loop from hook. Insert hook from front to back through first dc, then through dropped loop. Yoh and pull through both loops on hook – Popcorn made. Ch 3. Rep from * twice more. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. 4 Popcorns.
R2: Beg Popcorn in first Popcorn. *Ch 1. (Popcorn. Ch 4. Popcorn) in next ch-3 sp. Ch 1.** Popcorn in next Popcorn. Rep from * twice more, then rep from * to ** once. Join with sl st to top of first Popcorn.
R3: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc in next ch-1 sp. 1 dc in next Popcorn. *(3 dc. Ch 3. 3 dc) in next ch-4 sp. (1 dc in next Popcorn. 2 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice. 1 dc in next Popcorn. Rep from * twice more. (3 dc. Ch 3. 3 dc) in next ch-4 sp. 1 dc in next Popcorn. 2 dc in next ch-1 sp. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.

Join them together as shown in the picture.

Border is optional.  In order to do the border that I did, work holding one strand of white and one strand of lavender and work around border working 1 dc in each st, but on corner st do 2 dc and skip the bottommost two st in the valleys (to keep the points and valleys).  Work two rows like this and then fill in the triangle with back and forth rows of dcs(i did this in white).  I did 5 in the lowest part of the valley and added one on each end(2 per row) going up through the triangle.  Then I worked one more row all the way around the piece with the double strand white and purple.

Sorry the border is written so jumbly, I wrote it after the fact and it was hard to capture the idea.  If you have questions or suggestions for how I could modify it, please let me know!  I hope you like my newest blanket!

I'm linking up to this party!!

Super Thick Popped V Stitch Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Super Thick Popped V Stitch Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Popped V Crochet Stitch Tutorial

If you have problems with this pattern, check out my Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: Follow Popped V Stitch around the piece for  12-13 rounds.  Lay piece as will be constructed in order to verify that you have enough rows.  Finish off.
Sew up seam and hide tails.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Flying Birds Thick Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Flying Birds Thick Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Flying Birds Crochet Stitch Tutorial

If you have any problems with this pattern, please reference the Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: Follow Flying Bird Stitch around the piece for  9-10 rounds.  Lay piece as will be constructed in order to verify that you have enough rows.  Finish off.
Sew up seam and hide tails.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Double Thick Moss Stitch Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Double Thick Moss Stitch Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Moss Stitch pattern tutorial  (ignore their first row and use mine instead.)

If you have any problems with this pattern, please visit my Thick and Easy Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: * sc, ch1, sk next sc* around to end.
Round 3-15:  repeat round 2 to the end, Finish off leaving a long tail.

Use tail to join seam together and voila!

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Star Stitch Doubled Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Star Stitch Doubled Potholder

Materials:
Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern notes:
The star stitch for this pattern is worked using only the first row of the pattern.
View the Star Stitch Pattern
As you're working this pattern, if you run into any trouble, please view my Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder. 

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:

Ch. 35

Row 1: Insert hook in 1st stitch of chain. Draw a loop through each of the 1st 5 stitches of chain, throw yarn over hook and draw it through all the stitches on hook, closing the cluster by chaining 1. * Draw a loop through the eye formed by chaining 1, another through the back part of last upright stitch of the star just made, then through the same stitch of chain in which the 5th stitch of previous star was taken, then through each of the next 2 stitches. Wrap and take off 6 loops. Close as before. *  Repeat from *.* to end.  When at the end, create an extra two stitches by doing the following- begin star as directed, but when you get to the "next 2 stitches" part, draw up a loop from the first one, yo and pull through just one loop, then yo and pull through the same st.  Then repeat again in this fashion one more time.  Do not turn the piece, just continue working on the other side.

Row 2: repeat row one.  You should end up having created an extra st at each end.  Do not turn, continue working as in rounds.

Round 2: Work star stitch all the way around, and do not join at the end of the round, instead keep working in a spiral pattern.

Round 3-10.  (check yours by laying it flat, you'll be able to tell if you've got the right amount of rows.
Finish off, and sew along the seam to make a square.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Bernat 2012 Spoiler Page is Now UP!!

Ok, so I couldn't keep it a secret, because it's something that I've been working so hard on behind the scenes.  So, I found a creative solution... I created a page within this site for the 2012 Bernat Crochet Along that you can get to via link, if you want to spoil the surprise.  I'll post updates on that page with pictures of the clues as I go along and you can follow me on my progress if you so desire.  If you don't want to spoil the surprise and you want to wait and see it until it is all done, then don't ever visit the page.. simple, really!


Bernat 2012 Mystery Afghan Crochet Along Spoiler Page Link Here!

Sometimes you just have a day of Fail....

As a crocheter, I love yarn.  But I like yarn best when it is doing what I want and I'm not mucking things all up.

My eldest daughter asked me to make her a blankie that she could snuggle with.  Naturally, I love making things, especially when one of my children asks me to.  I set out to find a pattern that I liked and was relatively unsuccessful.  I did find a picture of a blanket that I thought was really awesome, but the pattern for it was $28.  RIDICULOUS.

Why, would I, someone who has been crocheting for years and years, ever want to pay that much for a pattern?  I can understand if it was some dynamically awesome blanket that also did your chores for you, or perhaps crocheted itself, but really, that was ridiculous.

So, I did what I always do, and zoomed in and enhanced the photo of the afghan and began to test.  I tried about ten different stitches, still am not sure what kind of stitch it is.  I ended up doing a granny style version of it, and it's looking pretty good.

Except... there are a number of "fails"

Sometimes, I pull all the yarn out and remove the "fails" and other times, they serve to my advantage.  None of the fails are going to make the blanket fall apart, they're just simple errors in my calculation that make the piece either not match the pattern, or they take on a life of their own.

Fail #1- I didn't swatch the colors to see how they would go together, and now, after having done the whole center of the blanket, I've decided that I wouldn't have done the color pattern this way if I had been paying attention properly when I began.  So do I pull the whole thing apart or scrap what I've got and start over?  No, I've decided that I'm going to embrace the color pattern in the center and continue on with what I had planned and let it have a unique middle to it.

Fail #2- I didn't check the brand or dye lot of the purple that I had been using when I started the afghan when I went and bought a whole new pound of yarn.  They don't match, albeit they're close.  I can't take the new yarn back because I've already ripped into it and started unraveling the skein.  I could rip all of the piece apart and replace the other purple with this purple and fix "Fail #1" with this as well, but I've decided once again, to let my flaws shine a little and let it be.


Fail #3- After switching colors as I had wanted to (remember Fail #1)  I started the next row with the wrong color!  How did I do that?  I certainly thought I knew what I was doing...  And what's even worse is that I managed to get all the way through that color- 5 rounds, and three rounds into the next before I noticed and decided that this wasn't right.  This time, I pulled out my error.  I had only been working on one side of the piece and decided that this was worth pulling out the yarn.  My bad.  whoops.  Hopefully when I reattach the yarn I do a better job of paying attention.


So why am I sharing this with you?  For two reasons-


1: My whole pattern creation process more or less defines why I offer my patterns up for free.  Chances are, if you're a crocheter, then you have a basic knowledge of the stitches and can do exactly what I did.  You too can look at a picture and design your own pattern based off of it, and perhaps even come up with something cooler than your example.  I figure, I did it, you can do it too, so I may as well save you the hassle and share it with you as well.  After all, crochet love is universal, right?  (And a mighty shout out to my peeps from the UK, Canada, Australia and Germany who all popped up on my visitors list!)


2: I am also sharing this with you because sometimes it's okay to have "Fails" in your craft, and it's also okay to embrace those failures and learn from them.  Sometimes you have to do the right thing and backtrack, and other times you can let that little fail be your signature on the piece.  The important thing is to enjoy yourself and to not let the little fails be something that stops you from doing something you love.