Oval Pig Trivet {crochet pattern}

My mother loves pigs.  She had asked me a couple of years ago to make her an oval trivet and I kept trying to make one work, and finally got something I more-or-less liked with this one.  It really looked ok for a while, but I made it double thick(for heat tolerance), and when I added the second layer, I don't know if I just did a poor job of joining them, but I wasn't as pleased as I could have been with the edges.  Mom loved it though (as a good mom should), and all is well.  

This pattern is really rough, I didn't write things down as I went along and am now writing them from memory.  If you notice any errors or find any solutions to problems, feel free to leave me a comment and I'll make the appropriate corrections.

Oval Pig Trivet

Materials:

1 skein Pink worsted weight yarn- probably best to use a cotton or other heat safe yarn, but I knew my mom would never use it for more than either decoration or as a table trivet after things had cooled a bit, so I used Red Heart)

Small amount Black worsted weight yarn

Small amount White worsted weight yarn

Size H Crochet Hook

Embroidery needle (for weaving in ends)

Instructions:

Body (Make 2)

*For the body, think about working a circle, but you are inserting a straight section into the middle of two opposing sides of a circle.*
chain 11
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.
R3: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next *2 dc, 1 dc* repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R4: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R5: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, dc *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R6: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, dc, dc *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc, 1dc , 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R7: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 5 st *2dc, dc in next 5 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, dc in next 5 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R8: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 6 st *2dc, dc in next 6 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 6 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R9: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 7 st *2dc, dc in next 7 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 7 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R10: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 8 st *2dc, dc in next 8 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 8 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R11: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 9 st *2dc, dc in next 9 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 9 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R12: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 10 st *2dc, dc in next 10 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 10 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R13: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next 11 st *2dc, dc in next 11 st*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc,dc in next 11 st* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing two body pieces together.

Snout:
In pink:
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.
R3: ch 3, dc in same, dc in next *2 dc, 1 dc* repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.
R4: ch 3, dc in same, dc, dc, *2dc, 1 dc, 1dc*repeat from * three more times, dc in next 7 st, *2 dc, , 1dc, 1 dc* five times, dc in each of next 7 dc, and join to top of ch 3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing on to face.
Lines on snout- attach a strand of black yarn through the middle of the piece.  Surface slip stitch crochet two vertical lines for the nostrils.

Eyes:

Whites (make 2)
Using one size larger hook than you did for the body:
R1: 4 dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc in each of next 7 ch, 5 dc in last chain. working on other side of chain, dc in next 7 ch, sl st in top of Ch2.
R2: ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, join to top of ch3.  FO, leaving a tail for sewing to face.

Blacks (make 2)
Using smaller hook:
ch 3 and join to make ring, ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join to top of first sc, FO, leaving a tail for sewing.  If you stitched over the starting yarn tail, you can pull tight to close the hole in the center.

Ears and Legs (make 4)

Chain 10
R1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 7 st. Ch 3, turn.
R2: dc2tog four times.  ch 3, turn.
R3: dc in each of 4 st. ch 3, turn.
R4: dc2tog twice. ch 3, turn.
R5: dc2tog, fo, leaving tail for weaving in.


Assembly:

Sew the black part of the eye onto the white part of the eye.
Position your snout, eyes, ears and feet with pins until you're happy with the placement.
Sew each piece on to the front piece of the body (not both pieces yet!)  When you place the ears and feet, sew them about 1/4" below the top/bottom of the piece on the back side.  When you join the back body piece, it will enclose them within.
After all body parts are attached, sew the front piece to the back.  I recommend also stringing your yarn into the center parts of the pig and tacking the front and back together throughout.

Bacon and Eggs Skillet Trivet {crochet pattern}

I just love whimsical potholders and trivets.  I think they're fun to bring out on the holidays and equally fun to hang on your wall and have around as a conversation piece.  I made this one two years ago and gave it away as a Christmas present.  This year, I'm making it again, but I'm also sharing it here!  

Notes:  In R1 (on the skillet pieces and egg), if you do your stitches over the tail from the beginning, you will be able to pull on the tail and eliminate the hole in the center. 

Bacon and Eggs Skillet Trivet

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Materials Needed:
about a half a skein of black yarn
minimal amounts of white, yellow and two shades of brown yarn
"H" Hook
Embroidery needle (for weaving in ends)

Skillet Section (make 2):

ch 6, join with sl st
R1:  ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join to top of ch3(12st)
R2: ch3, dc in same st, 2dc in each dc around, join with sl st to top of ch3(24st)
R3: ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc* repeat to end, join with sl st to top of ch3 (36st)
R4: ch 3, dc in same st, {dc in dc} twice, *2dc in next dc, {dc in dc} twice* repeat to end, join with sl st to top of ch3 (48st)
R5:  ch 3, dc in same st, {dc in dc} three times, *2dc in next dc, {dc in dc} three times* repeat to end, join with sl st to top of ch3 (60st)
R6: ch 3, dc in same st, {dc in dc} four times, *2d in next dc, {dc in dc} four times* repeat to end, join with sl st to top of ch3 (72st)
{Here we'll switch to working back and forth in rows}
R7: ch 3, dc in next 5 st, ch3, turn (6st)
R8:  dc in next 5 st, ch 3, turn (6st)
R9: dc in next 5 st, ch 3, turn (6st)
R10: dc in next 5 st, ch 3, turn (6st)
R11: dc in next 5 st, ch 3, turn (6st)
R12: dc in next 5 st, ch 3, turn (6st)  
R13: dc in next 5 st, ch 6, turn (6st)
R14:  join in top of ch 3 from previous row, FO.

Egg:

Base, work in White:

ch 4, join with sl st
R1: ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (12st)
R2: ch 3, 2 dc in each dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (24 st)
R3: sc, hdc, hdc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, hdc, hdc, sc, sl st in next st, FO

Yolk, work in yellow: 

ch 4, join with sl st
R1: ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch 3, FO (12 st)


Bacon:
mine is worked in two scrap shades of brown I had laying around :) 
A= Dark Brown
B= Light Brown

With both A and B, chain 17
R1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and next 14 ch, ch1, turn (15 dc)
R2: sc in next 14 dc, drop color A, ch 1 (15 sc)
R3: with color B, sc in next 14 sc, FO (15 sc)

Thread the tail from the dropped color A in the second row and baste across the middle row, pull taut and then loosen a little to make it look rippled, like bacon.

Note: if you prefer more "meat in your meal" you can make a second piece of bacon to add to your skillet. :)

Finishing up:

Using the tails you left behind, sew yolk to egg.  
Choose your placement of egg and bacon on one skillet piece and sew around the edges to attach to skillet.  

Last, lay your decorated skillet over top of the undecorated half and join yarn on the edge of the ch6 at the top of the skillet handle.  Sc 8 times on ch 6 space, and then sc all the way around working in loops from both skillet sides.  When you've worked all the way around, sl st in top of the first chain and FO, weaving in any remaining ends.

I'm linking up here today:

Super Thick Popped V Stitch Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Super Thick Popped V Stitch Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Popped V Crochet Stitch Tutorial

If you have problems with this pattern, check out my Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: Follow Popped V Stitch around the piece for  12-13 rounds.  Lay piece as will be constructed in order to verify that you have enough rows.  Finish off.
Sew up seam and hide tails.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Flying Birds Thick Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 

Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Flying Birds Thick Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Flying Birds Crochet Stitch Tutorial

If you have any problems with this pattern, please reference the Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: Follow Flying Bird Stitch around the piece for  9-10 rounds.  Lay piece as will be constructed in order to verify that you have enough rows.  Finish off.
Sew up seam and hide tails.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Double Thick Moss Stitch Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Double Thick Moss Stitch Potholder

Materials:

Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern Notes:

Moss Stitch pattern tutorial  (ignore their first row and use mine instead.)

If you have any problems with this pattern, please visit my Thick and Easy Potholder.

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:
ch30
Row 1: 1 sc in back loop of chain, sc across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop, turn
Row 2: 1 sc in what is now the back loop of chain across to end, ending with 2sc in last loop.
*work in continuous rounds to the end of pattern, do not join at the end of rounds, just continue working in tops of stitches.
Round 2: * sc, ch1, sk next sc* around to end.
Round 3-15:  repeat round 2 to the end, Finish off leaving a long tail.

Use tail to join seam together and voila!

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!

Star Stitch Doubled Potholder {Crochet Pattern}

 Copyright 2010-2012 LiLu Studios: This Crafting Life, by Lori Steffens. {http://www.thiscraftinglife.com/} Make it, Wear it, Love it, but above all, Share it, don't Sell it!

Star Stitch Doubled Potholder

Materials:
Size H hook   
Cotton yarn-  THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.  Cotton is able to withstand very high heat and will not melt.  It will catch fire if exposed to flame, but it will not melt.  Acrylic yarn will melt when coming into contact with very hot items from the oven and is not to be trusted as an actual useable potholder material.  Acrylic yarn is fine when used for trivets, provided that your dish has cooled slightly prior to being used for it.  I personally used Lily: Peaches and Cream Yarn.  I really like the Peaches and Cream yarn and Sugar and Cream for kitchen items because it gives a thick and durable feel.

Pattern notes:
The star stitch for this pattern is worked using only the first row of the pattern.
View the Star Stitch Pattern
As you're working this pattern, if you run into any trouble, please view my Thick and Easy 1 Hour Potholder. 

This pattern is mostly a free form spiraling round pattern.  Do not get hung up on where you are on a row, you can figure out if you are right by laying it as it will go together as shown in the pictures.  You may end your potholder before or after i do, depending on the yarn that you use and the tension of which you crochet.  The important thing is that it meets together as shown in the pictures.
You will not join rounds, instead moving on to sc in the top of the last round directly.

Pattern:

Ch. 35

Row 1: Insert hook in 1st stitch of chain. Draw a loop through each of the 1st 5 stitches of chain, throw yarn over hook and draw it through all the stitches on hook, closing the cluster by chaining 1. * Draw a loop through the eye formed by chaining 1, another through the back part of last upright stitch of the star just made, then through the same stitch of chain in which the 5th stitch of previous star was taken, then through each of the next 2 stitches. Wrap and take off 6 loops. Close as before. *  Repeat from *.* to end.  When at the end, create an extra two stitches by doing the following- begin star as directed, but when you get to the "next 2 stitches" part, draw up a loop from the first one, yo and pull through just one loop, then yo and pull through the same st.  Then repeat again in this fashion one more time.  Do not turn the piece, just continue working on the other side.

Row 2: repeat row one.  You should end up having created an extra st at each end.  Do not turn, continue working as in rounds.

Round 2: Work star stitch all the way around, and do not join at the end of the round, instead keep working in a spiral pattern.

Round 3-10.  (check yours by laying it flat, you'll be able to tell if you've got the right amount of rows.
Finish off, and sew along the seam to make a square.

Notes: Blocking will help this potholder flatten out a little, you may also iron it on a low low setting or tack it together in a couple of places if it gaps out. :)

Another note!  Once you understand this pattern, you can make these in any size!  Follow the same formula, but increase your starting chain!  By making it bigger, you can make yourself a bigger potholder!